our place, 40 Maltby St

Bottles on bottles on bottles

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One of the questions on the MasterChef application form is ‘If you could eat at any restaurant in the world, what would it be and why?’ A tough question.

Presumably, they were expecting me to list some Michelin-starred number from the world’s top 50 list, but I said 40 Maltby Street. And I turned out to not be the only one — so did my my fellow MasterChef contestant and friend, #KentCoastClaire. So now we’re 40 Maltby Street buddies 4 LYF.

The food at 40 Maltby Street is maybe best described as “British small plates” (even though the term “small plates” is starting to grate). I’m sort of loathed to highlight this place because it’s a bit of a hidden gem: though highly rated amongst food critics and foodies alike, perhaps due to its location, it doesn’t quite get the hype that some of the more central places do. But they don’t need it — they have a very loyal following, of which I am part.

It’s simple: the food and wine is honest, generous, delicious; everyone who works there is chilled, lovely, warm; the atmosphere is rustic, cool, relaxed. Their terrines are always knockout, they do fried things exceptionally well and their puddings are beautifully restrained. No bookings here so you have to take your chances, but it’s a chance worth taking — I promise.

We started with the pork terrine with single, glossy, sticky prune, as well as the asparagus and morel croquettes. Both excellent. Next up a little cauliflower cheese tart — inspired idea but a bit dry on this occasion. A fried pollock dish followed, along with greens basted in anchovy butter (all I’ve ever wanted).

There’s always a terrine on the menu and it’s always excellent

Cauliflower cheese tartlet with piccalilli on the side — an inspired idea if ever I came across one

Always order the fried things here

Dessert was a vanilla parfait with apricots and sourdough toast — unlikely to remain etched into my memory but it was very simple and very lovely.

A simple, understated pud

We drank a gorgeous sparkling wine number (I forget specifics) and a fantastic Italian white wine from Muni — a combo of chardonnay, pinot grigio and durella grapes. It was good to be back.

Our mugs

The need-to-know stuff:

• Near: Maltby Street Market, located about equidistant from London Bridge and Bermondsey stations. I like to walk along the river from London Bridge

• Bookable: No — turn up around 5.30pm if you’d like to be seated straightaway.

• Occasion: This is casual date vibes, it’s meet a friend vibes. The no booking thing makes it a bit harder (albeit not impossible) to do as a group, so I w would say that this is generally a 2-person thing.

• Value: We had a couple of glasses of fizz, and a couple of glasses of wine.. We had about 5 — maybe 6 — plates and shared a dessert. The bill came to around £90 for 2.

• Service: Lovely, warm, casual.

• Get: The terrine and all / anything fried.