Kol — new(ish) kid on the block
I can’t remember what this was. I do remember that it was good.
Short on time? Head to the bottom of this page to get the essential info.
In the stolen moments between lockdown #2 and lockdown #3, we visited the newly opened KOL, which I can best describe as Mexican fine dining but warm and unstuffy. This is the perfect date spot: it felt special — a treat — but also supremely comforting, being coddled within those textured terracotta walls on a bitterly cold day.
The interiors are stunning, the atmosphere spot on, which — let’s face it— accounts for a lot of the experience in restaurants, especially higher end ones. That the kitchen was placed boldly in the middle of the dining room made you feel simultaneously like you were in someone’s home and watching a show — I can think of few better contexts for enjoying food.
Kitchen smack bang in the middle of the dining room is a vibe
It’s a tasting menu vibe and the dishes were a creative take on Mexican — for example, kohlrabi ceviche (pictured up top) came without fish, and gooseberries were used for acidity where you’d usually see lime or some other citrus. Some of this worked exceptionally well, some of it didn’t quite pull off. It was almost all interesting, though, so if you are into trying new things, then it’s a fun experience.
There was some exquisite food — the LANGOUSTINE TACOS, in particular. Squeezing the heads over the dish was deeply satisfying.
The langoustine tacos are rightly hailed
But maybe skip the octopus. It can be one of the most delicious things when cooked right, but was chewy on this occasion. And whilst scissors are a top 3 favourite tool for me in the kitchen, the pair offered to cut the octopus were distinctly style over substance (i.e. gold, but bloody uncomfortable to use)!
Chewy octopus + impractical scissors: the only low points
Drinks were excellent — great wine, and hands down the best margarita out there. Well, margaritas...The hospitality felt spot on: the staff were warm, helpful and attentive, yet discrete — allowing you to get lost in both conversation and the food.
Here’s the key info:
Near: Hyde Park, with the nearest station being Marble Arch.
Bookable: Yes.
Occasion: Perfect date spot for adventurous foodies.
Value: Good for a tasting menu in Fitzrovia -- menus start at £70 per person.
Get: The langoustine tacos + house margarita (avoid the octopus).
Service: Warm and well-judged.
